Ok, I pull the cart (TXT PDS) in the shop and jack up the back. Everything works.
I remove the stock controller. (36V)
Install a damaged controller. (36-48V alltrax 500 amp) it doesn't work. The funny thing is, the selinoid doesn't even kick. I didn't think the controller had anything to do with the selinoid. I thought it was only fired by a series of switches. (Reed, pedal and tow)
In fact, I thought maybe I somehow fried one of those switches hooking it up. So I removed the alltrax and put the stock one back in. The cart works. I didn't try everything, but the selinoid kicks and the wheels turned.
I figured the alltrax is no good because part of it was smashed.
I bought another used controller. (36-48V Curtis 500 amp) I installed it and it doesn't work. The selinoid doesn't kick. Even if I make the selinoid kick with a jumper, it won't turn the wheels. The reverse horn doesn't even turn on.
Now I know the used controller could be bad, but the guy I bought it from seemed to be honest.
So I'm pondering some stuff. First, what's the deal with 36-48V controllers? I hooked up both with the stock 36V selinoid and 36V pack. Is there some kind of programming that has to be changed for those controllers to work on 36V?
The Curtis controller has an additional plug. It is square like the run/tow plug. It only has two wires that are red/white going to it. One of them has pack voltage on it. Do you think I should connect the two wires?
I'm a little disappointed right now, but if the controllers have to be hooked to 48Vs, it may be that I have two good controllers. I have two more batteries I could hook in the pack. Should I try that? Do you think I need to put a 48 v selinoid in even for a momentary test? I have two, so its not a big deal. But I would think 48v would kick a 36V selinoid. (Just might get hot)
Sorry, for long post. Any help would be appreciated.
I remove the stock controller. (36V)
Install a damaged controller. (36-48V alltrax 500 amp) it doesn't work. The funny thing is, the selinoid doesn't even kick. I didn't think the controller had anything to do with the selinoid. I thought it was only fired by a series of switches. (Reed, pedal and tow)
In fact, I thought maybe I somehow fried one of those switches hooking it up. So I removed the alltrax and put the stock one back in. The cart works. I didn't try everything, but the selinoid kicks and the wheels turned.
I figured the alltrax is no good because part of it was smashed.
I bought another used controller. (36-48V Curtis 500 amp) I installed it and it doesn't work. The selinoid doesn't kick. Even if I make the selinoid kick with a jumper, it won't turn the wheels. The reverse horn doesn't even turn on.
Now I know the used controller could be bad, but the guy I bought it from seemed to be honest.
So I'm pondering some stuff. First, what's the deal with 36-48V controllers? I hooked up both with the stock 36V selinoid and 36V pack. Is there some kind of programming that has to be changed for those controllers to work on 36V?
The Curtis controller has an additional plug. It is square like the run/tow plug. It only has two wires that are red/white going to it. One of them has pack voltage on it. Do you think I should connect the two wires?
I'm a little disappointed right now, but if the controllers have to be hooked to 48Vs, it may be that I have two good controllers. I have two more batteries I could hook in the pack. Should I try that? Do you think I need to put a 48 v selinoid in even for a momentary test? I have two, so its not a big deal. But I would think 48v would kick a 36V selinoid. (Just might get hot)
Sorry, for long post. Any help would be appreciated.