Hello,
I figured I'd give a few pointers for stereo installs on a txt and what I've learned from doing a few. Installing a stereo on a txt, especially if you have ever installed a radio or performed any sort of 12v electrical work is simple. The radio quality and speakers are up to you. I have always used 4" marine grade speakers, and I would recommend a good stereo brand with bluetooth so you dont have to worry about cords. I am one of those guys that does not like to have issues down the road with install of any type so I tend to over due it.
The easiest method is to install if you have the front cowl off, however it is definitely still easy to install with the cowl on. Believe it or not, the golf ball holder is practically a perfect fit for the standard aftermarket sized stereos. You will need to cut the ball holder out using a flush cut saw or another form of cutting.
Most stereos come with a plug with ends you can solder or butt connect. I will then use that to connect all wires. You can use quick connects or solder, I prefer solder or a simple butt connector because I use my golf carts regularly in the woods and fields so they bounce around a lot, so I solder EVERYTHING and add heat shrink.
I run a constant hot to a switch for accessories such as phone chargers, cigarette lighters, and radio. The single toggle switch will kill power to all accessories without worrying if something is on when i step away. I do not use the key switch, not saying you cant, I just don't. The constant hot goes to the radio for the memory and the other side goes to the on/off for the radio, so I thus turn the radio on and off with the toggle switch. The rest of the actual stereo install is simple, connecting speaker wire, ground, etc. I run a designated ground wire from battery to the dash just because i over due everything.
I prefer 4" marine because they are perfect size and are plenty loud, even at 23 mph on hard road. Check out my pictures. You need to make sure you 4" speakers will clear the rear frame if you install behind the seat. I bought a pair of monoprice marine 4" that were too deep and i had to make a spacer as they hit the frame. The black pyle speakers picture weren't a deep speakers, so there was no clearance issues with that frame support. Also, notice you can remove the cup holder and install under the cub holder, so in turn I have 4 marine speakers on each of my carts.
Running the wire is a simple concept but is sometimes tedious, running from the dash to the cup holder is brainless, but taking the wire to behind the seat requires a good quality install. USE wire conduit and run along side driver side where the factory ignition wire goes, you will see nice channels under the cart where to run, once you get the battery area you will need to come up through somewhere in there and come up through the frame. I suggest zip tying the conduit on top of the frame and really give it a rip to make sure it is tight so IT DOES NOT MOVE (when all wire is installed). Running wire across that frame support will require patience as if you do it wrong and thus get speaker wire wrapped in your clutch or belt which is no good. I use conduit, and those little clips that wrap around conduit with a hole that can be mounted. There is a few holes that you can either zip tye the conduit to the frame or run a screw through the frame and into conduit clip (not sure of the exact name of those things).
drill your holes where your speakers need to go with the proper hole saw, again I use 4" speakers and I own a 4" hole saw. 4" is a win-win for me every time
I figured I'd give a few pointers for stereo installs on a txt and what I've learned from doing a few. Installing a stereo on a txt, especially if you have ever installed a radio or performed any sort of 12v electrical work is simple. The radio quality and speakers are up to you. I have always used 4" marine grade speakers, and I would recommend a good stereo brand with bluetooth so you dont have to worry about cords. I am one of those guys that does not like to have issues down the road with install of any type so I tend to over due it.
The easiest method is to install if you have the front cowl off, however it is definitely still easy to install with the cowl on. Believe it or not, the golf ball holder is practically a perfect fit for the standard aftermarket sized stereos. You will need to cut the ball holder out using a flush cut saw or another form of cutting.
Most stereos come with a plug with ends you can solder or butt connect. I will then use that to connect all wires. You can use quick connects or solder, I prefer solder or a simple butt connector because I use my golf carts regularly in the woods and fields so they bounce around a lot, so I solder EVERYTHING and add heat shrink.
I run a constant hot to a switch for accessories such as phone chargers, cigarette lighters, and radio. The single toggle switch will kill power to all accessories without worrying if something is on when i step away. I do not use the key switch, not saying you cant, I just don't. The constant hot goes to the radio for the memory and the other side goes to the on/off for the radio, so I thus turn the radio on and off with the toggle switch. The rest of the actual stereo install is simple, connecting speaker wire, ground, etc. I run a designated ground wire from battery to the dash just because i over due everything.
I prefer 4" marine because they are perfect size and are plenty loud, even at 23 mph on hard road. Check out my pictures. You need to make sure you 4" speakers will clear the rear frame if you install behind the seat. I bought a pair of monoprice marine 4" that were too deep and i had to make a spacer as they hit the frame. The black pyle speakers picture weren't a deep speakers, so there was no clearance issues with that frame support. Also, notice you can remove the cup holder and install under the cub holder, so in turn I have 4 marine speakers on each of my carts.
Running the wire is a simple concept but is sometimes tedious, running from the dash to the cup holder is brainless, but taking the wire to behind the seat requires a good quality install. USE wire conduit and run along side driver side where the factory ignition wire goes, you will see nice channels under the cart where to run, once you get the battery area you will need to come up through somewhere in there and come up through the frame. I suggest zip tying the conduit on top of the frame and really give it a rip to make sure it is tight so IT DOES NOT MOVE (when all wire is installed). Running wire across that frame support will require patience as if you do it wrong and thus get speaker wire wrapped in your clutch or belt which is no good. I use conduit, and those little clips that wrap around conduit with a hole that can be mounted. There is a few holes that you can either zip tye the conduit to the frame or run a screw through the frame and into conduit clip (not sure of the exact name of those things).
drill your holes where your speakers need to go with the proper hole saw, again I use 4" speakers and I own a 4" hole saw. 4" is a win-win for me every time