December 6, 2019, 7:30 pm
Hi fellas...I have a Yamaha G1 that I have had for a cpl of years now. Its had a top end rebuild and all new seals gaskets and a service kit put in it with input help from you guys here on this forum...
Now the old girl has been going like brand new for months and not a problem...All of a sudden she has stopped after 3/4 of a round at the course.i got her home cleaned the filters, plugs...tried to start her...no go(had spark)spayed some engine starter in the carby and away it went, using her around here no worries for days just poking about...Today she stopped again after 15 holes...got towed the rest of the game...Halfway down the 18th I put the foot on the pedal and away no worries for the rest of the game...Now the weather here at the moment is in the 40's c deg...Could it be the coil breaking down once hot??..
If it had a fuel block it would not start up again?
Thx Griff.:thumbup:
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December 6, 2019, 7:54 pm
I'm trying to buy an electric cart for my wife that will be used in a place with very steep and big hills. Current cart is a much modified gas cart which she hates because it's noisy and has other issues, thus the search for an electric cart. So far, I've looked at an easy-go rxv which the fellow claims will give me plenty of power because of the ac motor and great braking with only the rear brakes because they are the regenitive (is that a word?) type. Another told me yamaha was the way to go. Any advice here would be appreciated. I need power and good brakes. Also the rxv guy thinks I should spring for lithium batteries since I balked at the 4 twelve volts to get to 48 volts (as opposed to 6 eight volt batteries). Can someone tell me what I should look for? Thanks
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December 6, 2019, 6:04 pm
Can someone post a pic of where the microswitches are located.
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December 7, 2019, 6:08 am
Good morning gents, I have the above mentioned cart. Its in very good condition so I dont see the need to buy a new one. It currently runs fine but smokes a little at start or choked. I want to start collecting the needed parts for an engine swap. I dont need it to fly as my kids drive it a good bit but around 25mph loaded would be cool. What engine/kit would you recommend?
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December 7, 2019, 7:06 am
If you have SPECIFIC INFO,
Would you please respond...
I would like to mod my wife's EZGO TXT Transport 6 Electric Cart to rear disk brakes
I have seen the Ausco kit on Amazon but, if I cant SPEAK DIRECTLY TO THE SELLER...I wont buy
Also the info provided is HORRIBLE and the price for replacement pads is ridiculous. ...as.....in....no.
Is the Ausco kit a "Floating Caliper"? Don't respond unless you are SURE.... if not.... it's useless. "Floating" means that the caliper slides laterally so that BOTH pads apply (Squeezing) force and release force evenly.
I tried to contact Ausco directly but their web site was a fail.
I would actually be happy buying ONLY the Rotor Mod... and then I will fab a set up to add quality motorcycle calipers and pads.
Please.... if you HAVE experience with a product please do respond and/pm me asap.
THX:help::help:
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December 7, 2019, 7:56 am
Good morning gents, I have the above mentioned cart. Its in very good condition so I dont see the need to buy a new one. It currently runs fine but smokes a little at start or choked. I want to start collecting the needed parts for an engine swap. I dont need it to fly as my kids drive it a good bit but around 25mph loaded would be cool. What engine/kit would you recommend?
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December 7, 2019, 8:36 am
Have a 2001 clubcar ds model iq electric cart. The problem I have encounter with it is that when you plug in the charger it clicks but charger meter does not move. Used the same charger on another cart the charger works. So I believe its something with the cart. Replaced the charging receptacle with another one that I had(used) worked for a little while and same problem. Could it be the obc.
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December 7, 2019, 9:07 am
Hi folks, I had a round battery gauge on my cart. One of those "guess your voltage" type gauge. So I purchased a blank plastic gauge hole filler and I want to cut it to fit my rectangular shaped digital voltage meter. I have cut plastic in the past using a rotary tool but the plastic always melts and the lines are never as clean as I like. I'll probably be cutting my plastic dash to fit another gauge in the future so this would apply to that as well. Any tips would be greatly appreciated!
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December 7, 2019, 11:05 am
Has anyone ever purchased these Steeleng Fender Flares? Wanting some fender flares but the more slimmer look ones. These have the most sold icon on eBay and are a pretty good price. Any pics or info would be appreciated. THANKS
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Golf-Cart-S...cAAOSwE0JZAONL
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December 7, 2019, 2:23 pm
Working on a 670 Predator in a TXT and need to utilize a remote intake. Instead of starting from scratch, I wondered if anyone knows of an adaptor that would bolt to the carb. The adaptors Ive found use the existing air horn that turns up 90 deg. The few pieces that look like possible starting points dont give dimensions. Would a Vanguard use the same bolt pattern? My questions on the search function havent yielded anything. :| I worked as a machinist for 20+years, but no longer have access to equipment. Otherwise Id make up something probably way too elaborate!:lhmo:
Thanks in advance
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December 8, 2019, 8:29 am
I have a dusty Yamaha that I just dug out of storage. It broke down a decade or so ago. I now have the time and inclination to resurrect it.
First question is, what the hell is it? I wanna say it's an 81 G1, but not sure. Where do I look for a data plate?
Little help?
Thanks
***I cannot figure out how to upload pics because the file size allowed is crazy low...
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December 8, 2019, 9:55 am
I have an EZGO 2006 that has problems and I have replaced and test just about everything on it.
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December 8, 2019, 10:39 am
I have completed my predator 420 with a CvTech 06 primary clutch install in my Yamaha G9. It was a fun project, building my own motor mounting plate, intake manifold, and even my own muffler. I initially opted for the key start option but didn't like the loss of low and high end ranges. Also, even with a loose belt, shifting was an issue. I added a kill relay and installed the original starter generator. Now my issue is with low speed maneuvering and shifting. When the system goes from run to off and back the raw fuel pumped into the muffler ignites and the motor runs rough for a few seconds till the flooding clears, then it surges and the cart lurches. It is almost impossible to maneuver. Vegas Carts mentions adjusting your carb so it won't idle but this carb is non-adjustable. I can plug the idle jet but don't know if that will work. I am thinking of buying a carb with the cutoff soelnoid on it, but again, I don't know if that will cure the problem. Have any of you faced/cured this issue?
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December 8, 2019, 11:19 am
I am unable to find a complete robin ec25-2pg motor for sell. So I was wondering what would be a good replacement for the motor?
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December 8, 2019, 12:11 pm
I recently upgraded from 36V to 48V. I have a 2004 EZGO PDS. F/R switch is on the dash. I am adding the Delta-Q Receptical to my cart. I want to ensure that I have everything correct before I start charging.
There are four wires that come out of the new receptacle. A red + and Black-. The question I have is what are the two other wires for? I attached a photo showing the two wires. I seem not to be able to actually find a solid instruction on how to do the Powerwise Plug swap to the Delta-Q Receptacle.
Also, the red wire that was on my Powerwise Charger was throwing 100% throttle codes until I connected it to the Positive post on my batteries. Is that correct location for the wire?
Any pictures or help would be appreciated.
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December 8, 2019, 12:18 pm
iam getting near completion on a 18hp clone swap. I cannot get the idel low enough to allow the clutch to disengauge, motor dies, and if the clutch does not release then the cart will not stop.
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December 8, 2019, 1:08 pm
Gday,
I have recently bought a Club car 48V DS which was running perfectly fine until the other day went to drive and it cut out.
I charged the batteries and when I turned it on it does the same will drive for a second in both forward and reverse then cut out.
As the batteries were 5yrs old I replaced them and made sure fully charged.
Now it is still doing the same thing.
After turning on and off etc. I have worked out I can move the car forward and reverse with ONLY light pedal pressure. Once I press it down , however, it dies and cant move it anymore even with light pedal pressure unless I turn it off and wait a bit .
Wondering were should I start?
Cheers
Justin
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December 8, 2019, 1:35 pm
Hello everyone I have a 2014 Club Car Precedent. I fully charged the battery’s, has the right amount of distilled water in the batteries. I have (6) 8V batteries. I installed a battery gauge an it only dropped 1 bar so I kept driving it in my backyard to see if the meter go down. I was driving it today an my battery light came on to charge the cart. I tested each battery with the meter an they all ranged from 7.78 to 7.85, so which gauge do you think could be wrong, the factory gauge or the one I installed??
Attachment 195324
Attachment 195325
Attachment 195326
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December 8, 2019, 1:45 pm
I'm beginning to tire of the road whine from the stock Club Car 23" Kenda / Kraken AT tires (pretty aggressive, I'd say more off road than AT) on my lifted Onward.
I ride on paved roads 90%+ of the time, never off road other than grass or flat well maintained dirt / gravel trails. Never through mud etc...
Any suggestions on a quieter (hopefully smoother riding as well) tire that doesn't look completely out of place on a lifted cart?
They are 23x10 -R14.
Thanks for any suggestions.
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December 8, 2019, 3:04 pm
Hello,
I have a 1981 36 Volt Club Car. I got it as a "mechanic's special" I diagnosed a few things and have it kinda working.
I figured that I had some bad Speed Control Solenoids so I ordered a set. Long story short I figured the ones I ordered came dead, because when I replaced them they did not work. I tested my old Solenoids and a few of them did work so I replaced them back.
What voltage should I bet getting along the low amperage posts, the ones that the activation signal comes down ,the small low amperage side... I assume 12 volts as that is what is currently present when I test the ones in the cart.
The replacements ones don't seem to work on 12 volt, but on a hunch I tested them with 36 volts ( low amperage side small post side) and they did close and give me continuity.
Should my trigger wire for each solenoid be 12 volt or 36 volt?
The current solenoids in my car, 3 are firing on a 12 volt signal, but now none of my 10 new ones ( yes two orders ) will fire on a 12 volt signal, but they seem to want a 36 volt signal.
If they need 36 volts, where do I trace the feed line back to, and how do I get it 36 volts...
TIA
-NV
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